Ramen Grows Up
Yushi Asian Kitchen – New York, NY
I’ve always resisted the old maxim that all good things must come to an end. I concede that this must certainly be true some of the time, but to say that all good things must end underestimates the adaptability and resiliency of goodness. To my thinking, some good things, however cherished, must at some time surely conclude; other joys, rather than ending, must evolve. The ability to deeply appreciate a full bowl of ramen noodles well into one’s adulthood is one such joy.
Once considered the inexpensive staple of cash-strapped college students unable to afford pricier provisions, these guilty, starchy pleasures have matured at the proud and attentive hands of the chefs at Yushi in New York City. It is as if the noodles’ relegation to being little more than dorm-dweller chow is but a fevered nightmare from which we’ve finally, thankfully awakened.
So how, one recently released from that baddest of dreams might rightfully ask, does one improve upon the savory beneficence experienced in a steaming bowl of ramen? Chefs at Yushi achieve it by filling a bowl with ramen noodles, crisp broccolini, a soft-boiled egg, and a layer of slow-cooked teriyaki chicken. They then drench the entire affair in deliciously-seasoned broth containing a full cup of Nanburyu sake. Bring a big appetite and your I.D., and you too can enjoy a taste of the chewy, alcohol-soaked sophistication that is sake ramen. One would be hard pressed to uncover tastier proof that indeed, not all good things must end. In many cases, all that is required to breathe new and exciting vitality into them are some good spirits.