Wine Review: 2012 Bodegas Pedro Escudero Fuente Milano Verdejo-Viura

I’ve purchased this one often enough that reviewing it now feels less like a choice than a duty. As with most tasks of the latter ilk (the duty, the responsibility, the obligation, and other words likewise imbued with enervating sorcery) weak flesh has trumped willing spirit on many a day, letting my inner procrastinator thrive. But my growing appreciation for the virtues of Verdejo and a fondness for easy-drinking white wines find much to talk about in this blend. And I can no longer deny said sentiments their day.

FuenteMilano2012lg2012 Bodegas Pedro Escudero Fuente Milano is produced in Spain’s Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon, one of two Vino de la Tierra (VdlT) regions—Vino de la Tierra de Castilla being the other, with forty-six in total as of 2012—whose commercial significance continues to swell. This blend, a 50-50 varietal made using 15-year-old vine Verdejo grapes and up to 45-year-old vine Viura, strikes me as an altogether decent if not necessarily sterling representation of wines from this region and of these grapes in particular. Indeed, there’s a satisfying chemistry to their interplay.

This is a light straw-hued wine that, when swirled, could win Academy Awards for its ability to produce fat, expressive tears on cue. I can’t say there’s a ton of fruit on the nose, but this doesn’t mean there’s not still plenty going on. Among its plentiful aromatics, my first impressions were of steel and flint, chased by able floral notes. Swirling also awakens and integrates quiet green grapes, playful citrus, and even a fleeting whiff of bubblegum into a potpourri laced with suggestions of petrol.

For better or worse, Fuente Milano 2012 seems to save its main fruit impressions for the palate. Its gift to the tongue is a bite of ripened pear through which green apple creeps along with citrus and melon. The petrol and stone elements carry through from nose to palate as well, but on the tongue these are relegated to supporting roles; they are the crew members working the curtains and lights for the fruitier, more extroverted flavors taking bows at center stage. Medium alcohol and a moderate to long finish allows one to savor these flavors, while a medium-full body and pleasing level of acidity maintains a sense of freshness that make for an overall pleasant drinking experience.

2012 Bodegas Pedro Escudero Fuente Milano Verdejo-Viura is a great example of a crisp, uncomplicated dry white wine. Retailing for about $11.00 USD per 750 ml bottle, it’s a safe and relatively inexpensive bet for wine lovers working their way through their local wine store’s Spanish whites. Wine drinkers looking for a pleasant blend that’s palatable on its own but also goes down smoothly with the likes of grilled or roasted poultry, soft cheeses, pasta salads, and/or seafood will likely find much to appreciate in this simple and delicious wine.


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